Phrae: former centre of the teak trade

 Next stop on my tour of Northern Thailand was Phrae, another attractive small town that sees very few Western tourists.

A random house; I enjoyed the mix of old and new in town.

A former-walled city and centre of teak production, Phrae boasts a grid-based old town filled with traditional wooden houses and European-inspired mansions (that teak money certainly flowed). It also boasts good coffeeshops and restaurants, super-friendly locals, and a handful of less-friendly dogs down a few of the sois (so keep an eye out when walking down the quieter side streets, especially in the evenings).

There's also some great walking along the former ramparts, giving you elevated views over the town centre.

Khum Chao Luang

My first stop in town was Khum Chao Luang, the late19th century former residence of the last of Phrae's royals, now a house museum. The museum features many interesting historical photographs, as well as furniture and ornaments. The basement gives you a chance to see the unpleasant underbelly of the luxe lifestyle: claustrophobically low ceilings and stark stone walls where the servants and slaves used to be "disciplined." 

And when you're done seeing how both sides used to live, the gardens provide a nice shady space to sit. There's also a great bubble tea shop opposite. Just sayin'.

Khum Vongburi

Next stop, Khum Vongburi. This private museum used to be the residence of a teak merchant who married a princess, and the ornate "gingerbreading" shows a beautiful fusion of Thai and European styles.

But Phrae isn't all teak-money mansions - many of the "ordinary" local houses are traditional wooden houses, including some that have been converted in guesthouses and coffee shops. It makes for a harmonious and pleasant place to wander.

Attractive wooden houses, with de rigeur Thai wiring outside.

As mentioned, a number of buildings in the old, walled city have been turned into guesthouses and boutique hotels, so you can choose to stay right in the centre of the historical area. Or if you prefer more mod-cons, the modern city is just a short walk away. I personally stayed at the modern Maeyom Palace Hotel, 5 minute's walk NE of the city walls, with comfy and well-maintained rooms, a pool, and super friendly and welcoming staff.

But then the whole town was super friendly and welcoming - that's part of the joy of travelling off the beaten track in Northern Thailand!