2019 travel costs for Cambodia

I visited Cambodia for the first time in November 2019, and thought it might be useful to share how much it cost (as a solo flashpacker).

First off, Cambodia is harder to do cheaply than neighbouring Thailand. You will often end up paying more to find decent accommodation, and it can be harder to find street food (certainly, the street food is less accessible). Although I found cheap local noodle places in some places, in others those sorts of joints were either few and far between, or seemed (to my fastidious Western eyes) quite decrepit, so I didn't necessarily feel comfortable eating there. Plus all those fancy French restaurants and patisseries are quite tempting....So I ended up going considerably over my budget, and spent an average of  $66.67 USD (£50.61) per day.

Accommodation average $31 per night (£23.59). Siem Reap has an enormous number of hotels and dorms, across all price points. At the price I was paying, expect a nice room in a small hotel with a pool. Phnom Penh has a lot of quite dodgy, cheap places. I splurged for a midrange hotel, so I could be assured a pleasant stay, away from the noise of the city. Sihanoukville should be avoided at all costs (the town has been turned into a massive construction site and garbage dump, with almost all the old backpacker-friendly places gone). The islands are nice, but very expensive (I guess that's supply and demand, now Sihanoukville has been destroyed, there are very few places left for beachgoers to visit). Kampot, Kep, Kratie and Stung Treng have more of the old backpacker vibe going on, with plenty of good-value accommodation available.

• Siem Reap – $24.
• Battambang  – $20 
• Phnom Penh – $34 
• Sihanoukville – $40 – arrived too late to want to go to the islands, so spent a night in town. That was a mistake.
• Koh Rong Samloen – $69 for a perfectly average bungalow joint. Decent place, but about twice what I'd expect to pay for something similar on the Thai islands.
• Koh Rong – $52
• Kampot – $17
• Kep – $20
• Kratie – $15
• Stung Treng – $15

Food and drink: average $17.68 USD (£13.42) per day. A lot of tourist-oriented restaurants, a lot of fancy pastries and croissants, and a few high end meals at expensive restaurants. Sample costs might be:

• $3.50 for a croissant and coffee for breakfast
• $2.75 for an iced coffee in the Angkor archaeological park
• $5-11 for a meal at a tourist-oriented café or small restaurant (ie., a veggie bowl and smoothie, or a sandwich and iced coffee, or a curry and rice). Expect prices at the lower end of the range in the more backpackery sites, and the upper end on the islands or Siem Reap
• $33 for a fancy afternoon tea at a 5 star hotel
• $1.25-$2 for a bowl of noodles at a local place

Sightseeing: Angkor will be your main sightseeing cost, and isn't cheap, but is well worth it. A three day pass will be sufficient for most people, and costs $62 USD. Add on to that the cost of a tuktuk or driver to get you to/from, and around the site. I was told the going rate was $12 a day, but I found the drivers typically asked for $15-20 (I agreed $15 each time, so may have overpaid a bit, but I figure a man should make a decent wage for his time). 

Other sightseeing costs: $8-15 each for the big museums and sites in Phnom Penh, $1 to $5 for small museums and art spaces outside of the capital, $13 plus tips for a pepper plantation tour (including hotel pickup), $20 for a snorkelling trip, $14 for a full-day bus trip up Bokor mountain, and $10 for a half-day cooking class.

Transport is also generally affordable, with a large number of coach companies plying routes between towns. I tended to use the more expensive coach companies (typically $8-15 per trip), with better reputations for reliability and quality of buses, but don't expect too much. Even the more expensive companies frequently break down, or arrive an hour or two late. I moved around a fair amount, and spend an average of $7.50 pd, including the cost of hiring tuktuks for the day to visit Angkor Wat, and a few tuktuk taxis to get across town.

So, that gives you a rough idea how much you might spend, assuming you travel as a solo flashpacker, and like your French pastries as much as I do.

On the way to Laos (Kratie, Stung Treng)

I was nearly at the end of my visa in Cambodia, so it was time to make a beeline for the border with Laos.

Because I hate long journeys, I broke it up into a couple of stops: day one was Phnom Pehn to Kratie (about 5 hours by bus), where I overnighted and enjoyed the views of the sunset over the Mekong from one of the waterfront hotels.

Typical Cambodian countryside scene, on the bus from PP to Kratie.

Dinner in Kratie

Sunset over the Mekong from the roof terrace of one of the many waterfront hotels.

Kratie is known as a tourist destination because of the pod of dolphins living about 20km upriver; dolphin watching trips seem to be the main reason people have traditionally stopped in the town. But the Irrawaddy dolphins are nearly completely extinct, with fewer of them every year, and the last thing the remaining few poor bastards need is boatloads of tourists showing up to gape at them, so I stayed away.

Truthfully, the town felt a bit like many tourists had decided to skip the dolphins as well. There was a bit of a run-down air to the place, a lot of guesthouses but not that many tourists on the street. Admittedly, I was there in November so not high season yet, but it still felt a little like the town and guesthouses I looked at had seen better days. Travelfish recommends using Kratie as a base to explore the surrounding countryside, but (visa deadlines aside), I didn't feel tempted to linger.

The following day, I took another bus to Stung Treng, up near the border, where I overnighted again and discovered a small but friendly town, one that doesn't seem to get a lot of tourists staying overnight (you can apparently book a thru ticket from Kratie all the way to the 4000 Islands without staying in Stung Treng, but it's a long journey -- more than 7 hours, including waiting at the border -- and I'd heard reports that the minivans used were frequently overbooked and very crowded. So I figured I'd do it in shorter, easier stages, and get the chance to see another town on the way).

Finally, the following morning I took a minivan (booked via the guesthouse) to the border and reached my next main destination, the 4000 Islands in Laos. It was a fairly simple trip -- one minivan drives you to the border, where you show your passports, pay for your visa on arrival, and get asked for the "stamping fee" of a couple of extra dollars. Another minibus and driver meets you on the other side, and takes you the rest of the way to Nakasang, where they will put you on a ferry to the island of your choice. It all works pretty well.

Stung Treng riverside

Kampot pepper plantations

Visited easily from both Kampot and Kep, the plantations that grow the famous Kampot pepper make another great day trip.

Some are more touristy or commercialised than others, so you can pick which one to visit based on whether you just want to see a working farm, or if you also want to take part in tourist activities, such as demonstrations of farming techniques, or pepper tastings.

I booked a day trip with one of the plantations directly, via their website. It included pickup at my guesthouse, various activities at the plantation including a guided tour and a tasting of various types of pepper, and lunch in their onsite restaurant. It was a nice day out.

My charming tour guide explaining various farming techniques

A marsh near the plantation

Oxen are still used in farming (although probably more for the tourists than out of necessity); this one was having a bath

 

Welcome to low-key backpacker country: Kep

As mentioned in my post on Kampot, we're firmly in backpacker country. If there was any doubt, my minibus between Kampot and Kep would have dispelled it. It was less public transport, more tourist trap. The staff herded Western tourists into the bus, filling every seat. Then they stacked 2 large backpacks in the aisle at the very back of the bus, and sat another tourist on top of the stack of backpacks. Then they loaded 2 more backpacks and 1 more tourist. Rinse and repeat until every square inch of the bus was filled with paying punters.

Once arrived in Kep, I found ruined villas covered in graffiti, seafood restaurants where you sit on a dock over the water, and (for some reason) large numbers of unicyclists.

Huh.

Anyway, I liked Kep. It's a small town, spread over a large area, with plenty of nothing in between the small amounts of something. The beach is small and man-made. There aren't any "top flight" tourist attractions, or trendy bars and restaurants, and there certainly isn't a buzzing nightlife. But there is a friendly and low-key vibe. 

You should go.

Ruined villa between the beach and the crab market

Small temple in the Kep National Park

Kep beach

That's my afternoon sorted! At one of the Crab Market restaurants

Crab Market

Bokor, a day trip from Kampot

Just outside of Kampot, Bokor was established by the French as a hill station 100 years ago. Climb up and up, via a winding road, into the National Park.

At the top, you'll find a number of interesting sights, spread over quite a large area. One of the first you come to is an old royal summer residence, the Black Palace, named for the black wood of its construction. Built for King Sihanouk, the "palace" is more of a modest holiday cottage, now covered in orange lichen and graffiti.

The ruins of the Black Palace

Orange lichen on the Black Palace

Deeper into the park, there are plenty of other notable historical buildings to explore, including the Catholic church. The area saw considerable action between the Vietnamese and the Khmer Rouge during the war, with soldiers using the church as cover. Tour guides will eagerly point out bullet holes in the walls.

Old Catholic church

The most famous of the historical buildings was Le Bokor Palace Hotel and Casino, but it was being redeveloped when I visited, with plans to turn it into a new 5 star hotel. Which unfortunately meant it was fenced off, so the only picture I have is a quickie taken from my bus window as we passed.

Le Bokor Palace Hotel and Casino

Speaking of development, the "National Park" status hasn't stopped massive new construction projects being built in the park. There's a massive new casino and a convention centre the size of an airline hanger, and plenty of new condo developments, dotting the landscape like carbuncles.

Beyond the ruins, you can visit a waterfall (small and non-impressive in the dry season), and attractive temples built next to a viewpoint.

If you have your own wheels, it's a fun place to explore on a day trip. Without your own wheels, you can find inexpensive tour buses in Kampot.

Kampot: a taste of old-school backpacker life

Cambodia has been developing quickly. Not too long ago, Siem Reap was a small town. Now it's a massive tourist hub, completely outgrown it's own infrastructure.

Sihanoukville has turned from what apparently used to be a party-oriented beach-bum site, to a hole of half-finished construction and gambling.

The islands still have some nice bits, but prices have shot up ($60-70 USD for a beach shack) and the vacant lots are rapidly filling in with "boutique" hotels and glamping setups (charging minimum $100 a night for a tent), catering more to middle-class professionals on 2 week's holiday than long-term travellers.

So where do you go in Cambodia for an old-school traveller vibe, a relaxed scene where you can meet other people and chill for a while, without worrying about your cash running out?

Well, that would be Kampot and Kep, in the far south, not that far from Vietnam.

The big durian in Kampot

Yes, that old-school traveller vibe is alive and well, especially in Kampot. And although that means a lot of not-terribly good restaurants selling burgers and watermelon shakes, it does mean good value accommodation, easy access to group tours, and plenty of new friends to make (should that appeal to you).

The town is an attractive one, with plenty of French colonial architecture, alongside some more modern bits. And the townspeople do love them a neon light, so much of the city is also attractive to walk around in the evening.

There are also a wide selection of decent international cuisines, and a general friendly feel. I liked exploring the town for a few days, and it helped blast away some of my Cambodia malaise.

Popular tours include a day trip to the remains of Bokor Hill Station (which I'll cover in a separate post), or an evening boat trip up the river, to see the fireflies.

It's a popular trip, with several boats going just before sunset each night. You can buy a ticket just before you board (which includes a drinks ticket or two), or you can sometimes get a free entry-only ticket (I was given a free entry ticket when I booked my Bokor Hill Station tour) and partake of the cash bar on board. 

Most boats are flat, barge-like boats with additional seating on pillows on the roof (my bones are old and creaky, so I chose to sit at a table and chairs on the main deck). If you do decide to take to the roof, please be aware: the boat goes under one very low bridge, where everyone on the roof has to lie down to avoid being squished as the underside of the bridge passes just above their bodies. (I wonder how often someone doesn't see the bridge coming and gets clunked?)

Sunset as the firefly boat sets off up the river

Another firefly boat, seen from my boat

One of the bridges seen from the firefly boat

All in all, I liked the town, and could easily see a traveller deciding to spend a few extra days. I would have been tempted to stay longer myself, if I'd had the time to spare on my visa....

Sorry about the finger - my phone is too large and heavy to use one-handed, and when I try and
shoot 2 handed sometimes a fingertip gets in the way. When did phones become so big again?

Cambodian islands: Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem

Off the coast of Sihanoukville, two islands make up the main "beach scene" in Cambodia.

Koh Rong is the larger of the two, with the most developed tourist infrastructure. It's the one with the "tourist town" on Koh Touch Beach, spreading onto nearby Long Set Beach, filled with cheap guesthouses, bars, and backpackers.

Head away from the town (by water taxi or, if you're brave of heart, by motorbike taxi), and you'll discover some of the most beautiful white sand beaches.

Soksan Beach Resort

The sand was so white, combined with the bleached wood and the bright sunlight, my camera was struggling with the exposure, and created this high-key effect...

The above pictures were taken on Soksan Beach, a massive, little-developed beach on the south-western side of the island. There are a handful of midrange and high end resorts, and a small fishing village at the north end that is home to a few basic homestays and low-rent guesthouses, and a few restaurants. But most of the beach was, at time of my visit, undeveloped.

Sunset on Soksan Beach

The village at the top end of Soksan Beach

The other island, Koh Rong Samloem, is quite a bit smaller. There's no real town, and no roads. Instead most accommodation is spread along the main bay (Saracen Bay), and consists of mostly small midrange and flashpacker bungalows, with a few expensive bungalows and "glamping" setups thrown in for good measure. The nature of the short-term leases on the island mean that, at the time I visited at least, there were no large resort operations.

There was a big storm one night while I was there; this was taken in the aftermath, while the sea was still rough. It understandably left the beach looking a little scruffy.

The main bay is fairly well developed, although not hugely crowded because the bungalow joints are all quite small. But if you want something even quieter, you can hike across the island to Secret Beach, which has only a couple of bungalows. 

If you do decide to base yourself at Secret Beach, or just visit for a day from the main bay, please be advised the path is quite rough in places (deep ruts and some steepish hills) so is probably best not attempted in flip flops, even though it's only about a mile. Take a powerful torch if going at night.

I also found quite a few sand-flies on Secret Beach when I visited, so make sure you have repellent.

Here's an unoriginal take: Sihanoukville sucks!

Sihanoukville natives must find the changes to their home town bewildering.

From small fishing village, to sleazy 2nd-rate Pattaya, to Russian gangster playground, to Chinese casino and gambling scam mecca....

Who did this town piss off to deserve such a fate?

I had no desire to overnight in Sihanoukville, but due to transport delays arrived in town a bit late to head to the islands directly, so spent one night.

God, it's depressing. Streets and infrastructure overwhelmed by all the construction, with potholes upon potholes, piles of garbage everywhere you look, and terrible flooding (even when your hotel is at the top of the hill).

The pictures below are a representative sample - I didn't go looking for especially ugly things to photograph; they were everywhere.

I felt really sorry for the long-term residents and business owners at the mess their town had become.

Phnom Pehn, city of contrasts

Phnom Pehn is a miss-mash of weird contradictions.

Towering skyscrapers, international banking, trendy bars and cafés selling high-end cocktails and patisserie. Yep.

The view from my hotel balcony.

Well-preserved buildings near the Old Market.

Crumbling colonial architecture.

Nightmare tangles of do-it-yourself-wiring.

Yep, that too.

Back street near the National Museum

Bad traffic, and delicious afternoon teas. 

Run-down streets, noise and rats and grime.

And rising above it all, astonishing street art.

All that siteseeing makes you hungry....

Near Wat Botum Park

Stunning artefacts in the National Museum, and a school-turned-prison preserved as a harrowing tourist attraction.

I'm not really certain whether I love or hate Phnom Pehn.

In the Royal Palace compound

Hullo, nice to meet you

In the National Museum

Cute as a button!

Battambang, the cultural centre of Cambodia

After a busy handful of days in uber-touristy Siem Reap, I caught a bus to Battambang, knowing little about the town (except that it had a reputation as a cultural centre, as was in the breadbasket of Cambodia).

On the road, just outside of Battambang

There's a great collection of old Khmer artefacts at the Battambang Provincial Museum, smack-dab in the old town (opening hours are a bit erratic, and don't expect the staff to know any English except "One dollar" which will get shouted at you the second you cross the threshold.)

There's a brilliant collection of modern Cambodian art (and a relaxing rooftop coffeeshop) at Romcheik 5 Artspace, nestled in a quiet, green street a short walk East from the town centre.

Landscape Under Acid Rain, by HOUR Seyha

There's plenty of choice in hotels, cafes serving western food, traditional Cambodian food, and even cooking classes (I took one at Nary Kitchen, and Nary was absolutely lovely).

Newer Battambang - some of the good-value hotels along the riverbank (goats not included)

In the old town

There are plenty of tourists in town, obviously (there wouldn't be half as many vegan cafes and cooking schools without them), but the town doesn't feel overly touristy.

It will never be my favourite place in Cambodia, probably because I had some bad luck with hotels: In the first place I stayed someone tried to enter my room during the night. It seems to have been an honest mistake - the man was a staff member who apparently thought the room was unoccupied. I moved to another hotel in the morning, and discovered when coming back to that second hotel in the evening that I'd inadvertently picked one right where the local red light zone was, so I was walking past prostitutes and curb-crawlers every evening (which honestly didn't bother me as much as the local naked homeless guy, standing there watching them, did - I don't think Cambodia has much mental health provision). None of which is the town's fault, but it did rather put me off.

Still, for a low-key couple of days in Cambodia, you could do worse.