Kampot: a taste of old-school backpacker life

Cambodia has been developing quickly. Not too long ago, Siem Reap was a small town. Now it's a massive tourist hub, completely outgrown it's own infrastructure.

Sihanoukville has turned from what apparently used to be a party-oriented beach-bum site, to a hole of half-finished construction and gambling.

The islands still have some nice bits, but prices have shot up ($60-70 USD for a beach shack) and the vacant lots are rapidly filling in with "boutique" hotels and glamping setups (charging minimum $100 a night for a tent), catering more to middle-class professionals on 2 week's holiday than long-term travellers.

So where do you go in Cambodia for an old-school traveller vibe, a relaxed scene where you can meet other people and chill for a while, without worrying about your cash running out?

Well, that would be Kampot and Kep, in the far south, not that far from Vietnam.

The big durian in Kampot

Yes, that old-school traveller vibe is alive and well, especially in Kampot. And although that means a lot of not-terribly good restaurants selling burgers and watermelon shakes, it does mean good value accommodation, easy access to group tours, and plenty of new friends to make (should that appeal to you).

The town is an attractive one, with plenty of French colonial architecture, alongside some more modern bits. And the townspeople do love them a neon light, so much of the city is also attractive to walk around in the evening.

There are also a wide selection of decent international cuisines, and a general friendly feel. I liked exploring the town for a few days, and it helped blast away some of my Cambodia malaise.

Popular tours include a day trip to the remains of Bokor Hill Station (which I'll cover in a separate post), or an evening boat trip up the river, to see the fireflies.

It's a popular trip, with several boats going just before sunset each night. You can buy a ticket just before you board (which includes a drinks ticket or two), or you can sometimes get a free entry-only ticket (I was given a free entry ticket when I booked my Bokor Hill Station tour) and partake of the cash bar on board. 

Most boats are flat, barge-like boats with additional seating on pillows on the roof (my bones are old and creaky, so I chose to sit at a table and chairs on the main deck). If you do decide to take to the roof, please be aware: the boat goes under one very low bridge, where everyone on the roof has to lie down to avoid being squished as the underside of the bridge passes just above their bodies. (I wonder how often someone doesn't see the bridge coming and gets clunked?)

Sunset as the firefly boat sets off up the river

Another firefly boat, seen from my boat

One of the bridges seen from the firefly boat

All in all, I liked the town, and could easily see a traveller deciding to spend a few extra days. I would have been tempted to stay longer myself, if I'd had the time to spare on my visa....

Sorry about the finger - my phone is too large and heavy to use one-handed, and when I try and
shoot 2 handed sometimes a fingertip gets in the way. When did phones become so big again?