Phattalung doesn't attract a lot of tourists (the locals on the train with me were all amazed that I was alighting there, rather than going on to Bangkok), but it's a convenient place to break your journey, is set in a fabulous location, and offers a few distractions, to happily fill an afternoon.
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| Looking NW from the centre of town as the sun sets |
There's a temple (Wat Khula Sawan) built alongside some caves on the Western side of the downtown, which was a bit of a dud when I visited - the main steps up to the caves were under repair, and when I tried to go in from another route, a bunch of mean dogs harassed me, so I left (and to the monk and group of local men who saw the dogs harassing me and did nothing to help or intervene, thanks for that!)
There's a pleasant night market just south of the train station, with plenty to eat, and a decent day market in the centre of the downtown area.
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| Looking NE, towards Khao Ok Thalu |
On the Eastern side of downtown, there's the town's main draw to fame, the towering limestone massif called Khao Ok Thalu. To reach the mountain, walk East along the main road, past the train station, then turn left just after the gas station onto Charoendit Ain Alley (there's a sign here, pointing the way to the mountain). Follow this road until it turns right, the take a left at another sign. Wave hello to the friendly locals who don't see that many foreigners walking past, and admire the pretty calf grazing near the incongruous exercise equipment.
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| Hi, pretty calf! |
Follow this second lane past a small Muslim cemetery, the first set of stairs (which only go a little way up) and past Mountain View Guest House. Immediately after the guesthouse, you'll reach a bunch of elephant statues, and the road ends in a parking area. This is where you go up.
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| You have reached your destination |
The steps initially lead past a seating area and some toilets, then climb for a couple of minutes, up to the first terrace. Here the path divides, with the older, narrower steps on the right leading to the mountain top, and the newer, wider steps on the left (marked by a couple of naga statues) leading to the temple.
According the Travelfish, the mountain top route is steeper, longer and more difficult than the temple route, so I picked the temple route.
Well, if that was the "easy" trail, I'd hate to try the hard one.
The route feels like it goes on and on, climbing endlessly. The views over the town and surrounding countryside are spectacular, but you do work to get them.
You pass a number of small Buddhas as you climb, and then a lovely, large and bright purple Ganesha, accompanied by a collection of jewelled mice. After the Ganesha, the path heads downhill a bit, to visit the first of the temple buildings, then continues deeper into the hills (I think, because I turned back not long after the Ganesha. My knees were starting to go wobbly).
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| Hi Ganesha! |
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| Hi mice friends! |
The temple trail isn't difficult, but it is hard work. Take plenty of water with you.
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