Terengganu? Terengganyes!

Kuala Terengganu was my next stop after Kapas, a chance to try more local (read not-geared-to-tourists) food, and get the sand out of my knickers.

I actually wasn't really expecting much (it's not a town I'd really heard much about), but you know what? I really liked it.

The town council must have engaged in a project to beautify the town a few years ago, because there are murals and street art everywhere. Little cute ones. Big, stately ones. Ones that seem rather ironic - one well-known series of cartoons stretches up Turtle Alley, and attempts to teach kids that turtles are friends, not food. 100m away, turtle eggs are sold prominently in the local wet market.

Meanwhile, the streets echo with canned birdsong.

So what do you do in K.T.?

• The old town (Chinatown) makes a nice place for a wander.
• The large state museum on the west side of town is worth a visit (you can get there on historical bus C02, from the central bus station, but be prepared to call a Grab on the way back, as the bus doesn't always turn up when scheduled.
• You can (and should!) eat. I had several memorable meals in town.

Just don't get a haircut, at least not in the place I did. I asked for a chin length, layered bob. I got, well it's not quite a page boy cut, but it feels not that far off. Because she started at the back, by the time I realised just how short she was cutting it, it was too late.

Meanwhile the hairdresser, who looked at the picture I brought with me and then ignored it, carefully collected all my cut off hair, presumably to sell to the local wigmaker.

Sigh.